Imagine a typical Sri Lankan village complete with the paddy fields, water ways that nourish the soil, vegetable patches sprouting the freshest produce, and even the scarecrow that guards the crops. Add to it the smells of fresh bread that emanate from the “poranuwa” (wood-fired oven), and the sounds of sizzling “handello” being fried over an open stove. A scene from a village far away you would think. Wrong.
This is the backdrop to the latest addition to Waters Edge’s increasing culinary prowess. “Thuna Paha” Embodying the uniqueness of a blend of cinnamon, cardamom, cumin and caraway that becomes the “super spice” that is the staple of most Sri Lankan dishes “Thuna Paha” by Waters Edge opened doors recently. The central idea at “Thuna Paha” is a buffet at your table and they pull-out all stops when it comes to delivering food from around our sunny island.
Waters Edge has basically converted their large lawn space in to a traditional village. The entrance to the restaurant acts as a market place selling Sri Lankan wares including some of the organic produce from the hotel’s own gardens.
Welcomed the traditional Sri Lankan way with an “Ayubowan” (May you have long life) and a herbal drink, guests can choose to sit outdoors in hamlets that surround the main garden or in an air-conditioned section. Surrounding the garden are action stations with the women of the village preparing everything from string hoppers to pittu and even the traditional sweet meats. On the other side an old uncle mans the hot oven which dishes out the softest bread and arguably the best jam buns in town.
Once seated a waiter clad in sarong and shirt will read out the day’s menu to you and hand you a tab to pick your drinks (best of both worlds!). We picked a very unique king coconut and treacle concoction that is a real thirst quencher to beat the heat. This is accompanied by a tray of local starters including the classic vaddai from the North, manioc chips, banana chips and fried fish. The platter is generally sufficient for two persons and our pick was the banana chips which are distinctly different to their manioc counterparts.
What comes next is a pleasant surprise and is heralded by the song “Tikiri Menike Ambula Genalla” in the background. A parade of young lasses clad in traditional “reddai hattai” (cloth and jacket) carrying reed baskets arrive at your table and present you with the days curries and condiments which are placed on a special heater. No two meals will have the same vegetables and curries which are also a unique experience in itself as you never know what to expect. We loved absolutely loved the Jaffna-style prawn curry which was a mild, yellow curry flavoured with saffron, and the mutton black curry which be warned is not for the faint-hearted. To cut the spiciness of the curries which is commonplace with Sri Lankan cuisine the “nelum ala” (lotus root” salad that we had in our “ambula” was just right. Special mention must also be made of the pumpkin white curry with mustard and of course the must-have Sinhala achcharu (pickle).
Then comes the array of staples which you can pick from at the various action stations. Everything from string hoppers to hoppers, rotti, pittu, bread and endemic Sri Lankan kottu rotti is freshly prepared and delivered to your table. For those who are more health-conscious most staples can be made with red rice flour on request.
Once you have sat down to your meal, do not be alarmed if you are suddenly disturbed by the sounds of traditional drums or the arrival of a devil dancer warding off evil spirits who might be there to trouble you while you eat. Traditional dancers also make occasional appearances to keep you entertained.
Towards the rear end of the restaurant, overlooking the Diyawanna is the village “Thabaruma” or bar which serves up the usual cocktails and mocktails with a traditional twist. This is a great place to grab a drink and relax as the sun sets picturesquely over the water.
We Sri Lankans love feeding our guests and Thuna Paha follows suit with a magnanimous platter of desserts once you have completed your meal. The platter may include seasonal fruits, Bibikkan (coconut cake), Watalappan, Curd and Treacle, and sweet meats such as coconut rock, milk toffee and even the kevum and kokis.
Family-friendly and with really nice staff who take the time to walk you through traditional Sri Lankan ways of life, this place is also a great way to teach young children of our national heritage. The restaurant is open for both lunch and dinner and we were quite surprised by their pricing which is reasonable to say the very least. Our recommendation is that you try dinner though when the restaurant really is at its grandest.
Location **** (Everyone knows Waters Edge!)
Ambiance **** (The lay out of the entire property creates a great atmosphere)
Service ***** (Knowledgeable and courteous and gives you the real feel of Sri Lankan hospitality)
Food ***** (Simple yet satisfying!)
Overall **** ½
Reviwed by #FoodiesSL
