If someone were to ask me to list my Top 10 favourite places in the world, the Old Dutch Fort in Galle would definitely be among them. There is just something about the heavily fortified UNESCO World Heritage site built in the 1600s that keeps you coming back time and time again. You can’t really put your finger on it and say it’s the archeology, or the culture or the people or even the food…It’s just an indescribable enigma… Natalie Rogers agrees.
Natalie and her husband Liam first took up abode in Sri Lanka in 2001 and lived in Kandy. A few years down the line an opportunity opened up to acquire an old spice warehouse inside the Galle Fort. The owners had converted the property as a colonial home, but decided against living in it. The result was the opening of the Fortaleza restaurant in 2012.
Fortaleza is Spanish means strength. It also happens to be a city in Brazil. But for Natalie and her team it embodies everything that the Galle Fort stands for – history, culture and a home away from home.
Our trip to Fortaleza brought us to Galle quite late at night only to be greeted by Chandana and the staff armed with wet towels and a nice cold welcome drink. The best welcome though came from Trevor, Fortaleza’s resident cat. Well more than a welcome it was a purr, a one-eyed stare and a nose stuck up in the air that told us she was not to be disturbed (Yes, it’s a she despite the name Trevor!). Instead of being offended we were quite happy to leave her majesty to her cat nap (no pun intended!) and be escorted to our room. After all Sri Lanka’s first cat to be featured on the travel directory for cat people, “Hotels with Cats” does need her beauty sleep!
The boutique hotel has four rooms and we were shown to what’s called the “Master Bedroom”. With a view overlooking Lighthouse Street this room is best described as simplistic elegance. Retaining the rustic handmade furniture, the room comes with a large four poster bed, comfortable arm chairs to rest or read in, a semi-open attached bathroom, and my favourite divan sofa cum bed which is ideal for reading or writing about your travels while sipping on a hot cup of tea or coffee that you can make for yourself. Although the rooms are air-conditioned, we preferred the sound and the cool air emanating from the old-fashioned ceiling fan. The room is also dimly lit making it the perfect place to just unwind and relax.
We also love the fact that Fortaleza uses no plastic and is doing their part to be eco friendly. So you will only find disposable brown paper laundry bags and reusable containers in the washroom for toiletries. Even the hair-dryer is stored in a stylish tote bag made by local artisans. If you are one of those travelers looking for modern conveniences be warned that there is no television, Wi-Fi or even a telephone in the rooms. You are in Galle Fort after all so the idea is to get out of your room and explore!
All meals are served in the tastefully decorated restaurant housed on the bottom floor of the building. Seating options are three-fold with traditional dining tables, outdoor seating under garden umbrellas and bar stools overlooking a well-stocked bar are up for grabs. The restaurant itself is a stunning sight at any time of day, mainly we attribute to the right –hand side wall which has retained its original state. We are told that the stones used to build it contain a mixture of coral and “kabok” which gives it the distinct colour that light just bounces off.
The menu at Fortaleza is eclectic in its mix of cuisines from around the world. For breakfast we had a good ol’ English breakfast and were quite satisfied with the large amount of Bacon that comes with it. One of the best recommendations we have off the menu is to have every meal with Fortaleza’s version of King Coconut and Lime. We were just in love! We also highly recommend their Prawn Spaghetti, Teriyaki Chicken and the Seafood in Spicy Coconut Gravy. We must also commend the restaurant for not being shy with their portions. For dessert one must try their “Podi Banoffee Tarts” which are simply melt-in-your-mouth divine.
Service is at its epitome at Fortaleza. From Natalie, down to Ethan and the staff, ensuring that every guest is well taken care of comes naturally. They truly are a living embodiment of hospitality. Placed in the heart of Galle Fort, Fortaleza is also ideal to stay in as you venture out and explore the cobblestone streets, the historic locations, the vivid culture and the simplicity of life. A simple request at the reception (often manned by Trevor!), will provide enough information on walking tours, and whale watching and other attractions in the area.
Even if you choose to simply stay indoors and enjoy the tranquility and quietness of this beautiful boutique hotel, there will still be memories that you take back with you. Memories that when revisited makes you want to come back just once more.
Box Information
Fortaleza Restaurant and Boutique Hotel
Church Cross Street, Galle
Tel: 0773 393397
Email: reservations@fortaleza.lk
Website: www.fortaleza.lk
By Nishu Hassim
Photo Credit: Sanura Gunawardana