Category: Food

Most of the greatest cuisines of the world can be traced back to a grandmother’s kitchen and recipes that have been passed on through the generations. In fact foodies around the world have often found their love for all things gastronomic stem from dishes that are prepared to perfection at home kitchens with that secret ingredient of “love”. Amrita de Saram will testify to both of the above.

Amrita grew up, surrounded by lots of love and tons of good food. Her grandmother Aida Suby hailing from Beirut, Lebanon, arrived in Sri Lanka in 1946 as a young bride, bringing with her authentic Middle Eastern recipes. As the story goes, Aida immersed herself in preparing her exotic dishes for friends and family. With authenticity and taste at the helm of her wares, Aida soon became a household name in Colombo. As her popularity increased she would soon be dubbed “Mama Aida”.

In 1998 Aida’s daughter Najah decided that it was time to pay tribute to her mother’s culinary prowess and Mama Aida’s Restaurant and Catering became the pioneers of Arabic food in Sri Lanka. Simultaneously, they also began manufacturing Aida’s signature pita bread which has made its way to kitchens across Sri Lanka.

Growing up in such a setting Aida’s granddaughter Amrita often toyed with the idea of getting in to the restaurant business. “I was always open to what inspired me. And growing up around my grandmother was amazing. She has played such an integral part in my life. In our family we call her mother love. I am so blessed to have such a strong woman as a role model. Her cooking together with my mom’s raised me to be who I am today”.

“August” is not just Amrita’s tribute to her grandmother’s heritage but also a representation of her own culinary journey. She tells me that the name stemmed from her birthday being in the month of August and she added on “by Mama Aida” to create the connection. The menu at August was created by Amrita and inspired by Lebanese cuisine. “One of my fondest childhood memories involving my grandmother is how she would have 10-15 of us kids in a circle around her while she fed us our meals. It would drive us all crazy waiting for our next mouthful! She taught us that food is more than just taste and texture. It’s an experience which I strive to bring to August.”

Nestled beside the Shirohana outlet on the corner where Horton Place meets Tickell Road, “August” is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 7pm onwards. With a seating capacity of 40-45 it is best that you make reservations as Amrita’s little restaurant is quite the talk of the town and often finds itself overbooked especially on weekends. Most often you will find Amrita herself heavily involved in the operations of the restaurant. “When we started off I used to basically do everything on my own but now I’ve trained the guys to take care of certain aspects of the business. This allows me to engage more freely with guests. I feel proud to be able to carry on a family legacy but I also have my own unique style and flair that I want my restaurant to portray.”

“August” serves truly authentic Middle-Eastern cuisine and the response from Colombo has been phenomenal. “Most of our guests are repeat customers and they often bring someone new along every time and I am so grateful for their loyalty and support. I want to be able to connect with everyone who walks in through our gate”, Amrita says.

“I love everything that I have put together on the menu and it is a reflection of me. All our dishes are made from scratch with premium produce and are wholesome. The variety of dishes and diversity of ingredients caters to all tastes and preferences. If I had to choose a couple of favourites it would be my grandmother’s rice dishes such as sayyadiyeh and Lebanese rice which evoke childhood memories”, she adds before suggesting what we should try from the menu.

When it comes to Lebanese cuisine “hummus” and “falalfel” are must-haves and Amrita has the most authentic Tahini in town to serve them with. One of our favourites was the slow cooked lamb served with pomegranate molasses that is just melt-in-your-mouth divine. The “harissa honeyed chicken wings” is another winner which is tossed in a chilli and honey sauce. The sauce is “hot” to say the very least so we recommend tiny bites of the chicken with lots of pita bread. To cut down the burning in your tongue and throat try their mint tea which is both fragrant and delightfully tasty. For dessert you have the option of picking traditional sweets like “mamoul” (butter shortcakes stuffed with dates) or “baklawa” (pistachio and cashew nut stuffed filo pastry fingers served in sugar syrup). These are ideal for those who prefer less sugary treats but if you are a true sweet tooth then we recommend (highly), the “August Mess”. In presentation the dish does indeed look a gooey mess of strawberries, meringue and cream but every bite is a little bit of heaven, especially with the crunchy bits of pistachio’s on top.

With staff who love the food they serve as much as the guests do, a menu that is simple but satisfying and a place that just helps you unwind and relax, Amrita has got many things going right for her where “August” is concerned. But I am tempted to ask her how she manages it all. “It was hard at first as I started out on this journey but I think I have a great balance now. Work hard and play hard is my motto. The key I believe is to stay true to yourself and what matters to you the most.”

With hopes to grow “August” into a brand that is recognized for quality, taste and a true reflection of what I stand for, Amrita also hopes that her restaurant will come to be known for her grandmother’s legacy of family, food and love.

Information

Full Name: Amrita De Saram

DOB: 10/08/1982

Alma Mater: Ladies College

Role-Model: Many in my life

Philosophy in Life: The better you become the better you attract

Favourites

5 Essentials in Your Handbag: Lip balm, money, phone, keys, pen

4 Favourite Travel Destinations: Mirissa, Haputale, London, Bali

3 Favourite Brands: Too many to mention

2 Favourite Foods: Cheese and Chocolate

Favourite Person: My sister

By Nishu Hassim

Photo Credit: Sanura Gunawardana

Imagine a typical Sri Lankan village complete with the paddy fields, water ways that nourish the soil, vegetable patches sprouting the freshest produce, and even the scarecrow that guards the crops. Add to it the smells of fresh bread that emanate from the “poranuwa” (wood-fired oven), and the sounds of sizzling “handello” being fried over an open stove. A scene from a village far away you would think. Wrong.

This is the backdrop to the latest addition to Waters Edge’s increasing culinary prowess. “Thuna Paha” Embodying the uniqueness of a blend of cinnamon, cardamom, cumin and caraway that becomes the “super spice” that is the staple of most Sri Lankan dishes “Thuna Paha” by Waters Edge opened doors recently. The central idea at “Thuna Paha” is a buffet at your table and they pull-out all stops when it comes to delivering food from around our sunny island.

Waters Edge has basically converted their large lawn space in to a traditional village. The entrance to the restaurant acts as a market place selling Sri Lankan wares including some of the organic produce from the hotel’s own gardens.

Welcomed the traditional Sri Lankan way with an “Ayubowan” (May you have long life) and a herbal drink, guests can choose to sit outdoors in hamlets that surround the main garden or in an air-conditioned section. Surrounding the garden are action stations with the women of the village preparing everything from string hoppers to pittu and even the traditional sweet meats. On the other side an old uncle mans the hot oven which dishes out the softest bread and arguably the best jam buns in town.

Once seated a waiter clad in sarong and shirt will read out the day’s menu to you and hand you a tab to pick your drinks (best of both worlds!). We picked a very unique king coconut and treacle concoction that is a real thirst quencher to beat the heat. This is accompanied by a tray of local starters including the classic vaddai from the North, manioc chips, banana chips and fried fish. The platter is generally sufficient for two persons and our pick was the banana chips which are distinctly different to their manioc counterparts.

What comes next is a pleasant surprise and is heralded by the song “Tikiri Menike Ambula Genalla” in the background. A parade of young lasses clad in traditional “reddai hattai” (cloth and jacket) carrying reed baskets arrive at your table and present you with the days curries and condiments which are placed on a special heater. No two meals will have the same vegetables and curries which are also a unique experience in itself as you never know what to expect. We loved absolutely loved the Jaffna-style prawn curry which was a mild, yellow curry flavoured with saffron, and the mutton black curry which be warned is not for the faint-hearted. To cut the spiciness of the curries which is commonplace with Sri Lankan cuisine the “nelum ala” (lotus root” salad that we had in our “ambula” was just right. Special mention must also be made of the pumpkin white curry with mustard and of course the must-have Sinhala achcharu (pickle).

Then comes the array of staples which you can pick from at the various action stations. Everything from string hoppers to hoppers, rotti, pittu, bread and endemic Sri Lankan kottu rotti is freshly prepared and delivered to your table. For those who are more health-conscious most staples can be made with red rice flour on request.

Once you have sat down to your meal, do not be alarmed if you are suddenly disturbed by the sounds of traditional drums or the arrival of a devil dancer warding off evil spirits who might be there to trouble you while you eat. Traditional dancers also make occasional appearances to keep you entertained.

Towards the rear end of the restaurant, overlooking the Diyawanna is the village “Thabaruma” or bar which serves up the usual cocktails and mocktails with a traditional twist. This is a great place to grab a drink and relax as the sun sets picturesquely over the water.

We Sri Lankans love feeding our guests and Thuna Paha follows suit with a magnanimous platter of desserts once you have completed your meal. The platter may include seasonal fruits, Bibikkan (coconut cake), Watalappan, Curd and Treacle, and sweet meats such as coconut rock, milk toffee and even the kevum and kokis.

Family-friendly and with really nice staff who take the time to walk you through traditional Sri Lankan ways of life, this place is also a great way to teach young children of our national heritage. The restaurant is open for both lunch and dinner and we were quite surprised by their pricing which is reasonable to say the very least. Our recommendation is that you try dinner though when the restaurant really is at its grandest.

Location **** (Everyone knows Waters Edge!)

Ambiance **** (The lay out of the entire property creates a great atmosphere)

Service ***** (Knowledgeable and courteous and gives you the real feel of Sri Lankan hospitality)

Food ***** (Simple yet satisfying!)

Overall **** ½

Reviwed by #FoodiesSL